Escrito hoy, el katorse de Julio en Calle San Agustin, Arequipa, Peru.
After all of the hype with my unforgettable Cusco and Machu PIcchu adventures, here´s a twist to my travel here in Peru..read on...
I hate myself for not learning full on conversational Spanish, most especially during this times. Plus i feel like my language is getting a little bit twisted already. haha. What was supposed to be a 2 day stay in Arequipa is now ending to be a 5 day self discovery or hmmm need i say "recuperating" stay.
Maybe some of you are wondering why i haven´t been emailing nor updating my facebook for the past few days. Yup, things happen for a reason. To give you an idea, i´ve been sick for 2 to 3 days now. and believe me, when you´re in a country where you don´t know anyone, no friends, cannot speak the language fluently....then you tend to know how far you can stretch yourself for survival. anyway, before i give you the details on that one (which happens more on Monday. Lunes) with my trip to Arequipa.
Biernes. El diez de Julio.
Last Friday, Ellie and I got on the bus from Cusco and headed down to Arequipa. It was an altitude drop from 3000 to 2000-2500m above sea level. The bus company we booked was Cruz Del Sur. Earlier research has given me the impression that security and service made this the best option when doing overnight bus travels. So far, it was a good ride for 12 hours. We had a blankie, pillow and were served snacks along the way. though the aircon got to be so hot in the wee hours of the morning, made it difficult for me to breathe and my sinuses were complaining. so that´s what the lady was saying "hace calor" . I think this contributed to my getting sick too.
Sabado. El onse de Julio.
We arrived in Arequipa by 6:30 am the following morning (Sabado). We walked towards the gate and decided to get an unregistered taxi which were supposed to be cheaper. to our dismay we were charged 6 soles rather than the typical 4 soles. Well, learnt that, so next time we knew how to bargain. We had ourselves dropped off at Calle PUente Grau in front of some Hostel. To our dismay, we were told there were no available beds for the night. So we crossed to a few more, realizing that "walk-in" for hostels was a no-no. You´ll notice here in Arequipa that security is tight. A lmost all of the hostels were dual bolted with big wooden doors and steel gates, as if saying "keep off". Ellie and I looked for a nearby internet cafe (thank God it was just .70 soles for an hour), and looked for other hostels on the net. Apparently you can´t book a hostel on the day itself via hostelbookers.com. so I decided to ring Arequipa Backpackers, which i thought would make a difference rather than trying on the net. Alleluia, they had an available room.
Arequipa Backpackers located along CAlle Cruz Verde, was a 5 to 10 minute walk to Plaza de Armas (center). Check in was around 11:30, so Ellie and I decided to have breakfast and walk around the town.
Arequipa is the second largest city in PEru. It is located in the southern area, and lies in the Andes mountains at an altitude of 2380 meters. IT is also called "The White City" because o f the buildings built in sillar, I believe is known to be formed from white volcanic rocks. I found it funny when i learned the Etymology of this city´s name. They say that it originated from Quechua (indigenuous language), meaning "YES, HERE" or as how Lonely planet puts it "YES, STAY". and i am
now here, staying for a few days. HA!
We checked out the side streets and were amazed how the spanish architect ure has been well preserved. apparantly, this has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. the buildings were said to be build with neo'classical architecture. It actually looks like a grand Intramuros (in the PHilippines). The streets are cobbled with stones. It´s outside the city center that you´ll only find cemented roads.
Our room was on the second floor of th ehostel. IT had a lovely view of the active volcano El Misti, standing in the background of Arequipa in a perfect cone shape. While lining up fo rthe shower, I had a chat with a guy from Canada who was actually in New Zealand 3 years ago, studying for 6 months in Dunedin. We were thinking that this rooftop would be great for stargazing at night since its always clear skies here in Arequipa. Temperature here is a little bit crazy. it can get so hot during the day, but cold at night. Plus, due to the alttitude, oxygen is a little bit of a problem. That´s why i always had my inhaler handy.
AFter checking in and finally having a shower, Ellie and I walked back to town and hopped on the bus for the city tour. We went to different locations in Arequipa, which brought us to hilltops giving us a grand view of the city. I understood only a few lines from the tour since it was in pure Spanish. Little did I know that I was the only English speaking in the group, apart from Ellie. During lunch, I could follow the conversation though I found it hard to converse. IT was a mix of a family from Chile, a family from PEru and a girl from Spain. All of a sudden I missed speaking Tagalog.
The tour took us 4 hours in total. having a few stops and eating some of the local foods. WE headed back to the bus terminal , and booked our bus ride for Puno (Monday). AFter which , I had to quickly go back to the hostel, get change and attend mass at the Main Cathedral. I found my way from the hostel to the center around 6 pm, just to realize the mass was scheduled for 7 pm. I was walking around in circles loking for an open entrance and say ing all over again that " Pero el dijo la misa es a las sais esta noche" (B ut he said the mass is 6pm tonight). Finally I was able to talk to a nun, and found out that it was a special mass, for the Lady of Miracles.
The mass ended at 8:30pm. Mass goers were given a free medallion of the Lady of Miracles. I was happy to be able to attend it. Ellie entered the church (however being an atheist), apparently he was waiting for more than 30 minutes already in front of the cathedral. We went around San Francisco street, and zoomed to some of the small malls. He was amazed as to how they still have malls in the vicinity which shouted more of Spanish colonial times. Yeah, I found it actually annoying. It sort of ruined the whole character of the place. I just realized from him that there´s this competition between Cusco and Arequipa. Cusco, in its way is touristy too, but was able to keep its "town charm". As like Arequipa, for me, it´s a big Intramuros park. But then here in Arequipa, security is still strict.
Linggo. El dose de Julio.
We woke up to the honking of the Colca Canyon tour van. 2:30 am. forget about washing your face and even br ushing your teeth.
It was a 5 hour roadtrip to Chivay. We picked up a few more passengers from varios hostels, and started our journey. Arequipa is very well known and attached to the Colca Canyons. Said to be twice deeper than the Grand Canyon. It is a well set Andean valley, and is very much cultivated by pre'Incan terraces. It is usualy visited so you can go to the Condor Pass, where you view the Andean Condors. They usually feed in the morning or afternoon. The beauty of its wings wide spread through these Andean valley is something worth watching. I sat there took a few pics, but more of just watch them soar through the canyons. I had a chance to have a chat with 2 guys from Israel, who I found funny, beca use whenever the C ondors would fly high they would say "yeah, that´s just another bird. so whats amazing about it." I guess we all do have our own perspective of things. Here was an almost extinct bird, which a lot of people has given effort to so they can be well kep and preserved.
We found our way through Cabanaconde and the valleys. Stopped for a few cliffs where they found different remains of people. The dust, heat, cold , etc made me more sick. My phlegm was getting worse, also the coughs and colds. Dizzy and dizzier. For the rest of the trip back to Arequipa center, I had a new seatmate. I think he was from Cuba? Not sure. Pero, el hablo espanol diferente de otros. I was thinking he might think i´m weird. coz for all of the remaining stops, i was tucked in under the provided blanket and sleeping. my fever was reall y getting to me.
We arrived back in Arequipa around 5 pm. Good thing we got dropped off at our hostel. I immediately changed to my PJ´s and went to sleep. My cough was getting worse and I was finding it difficult to breathe. The inhaler wasn´t doing any good anymore. So i decided to self medicate and get my medical kit, drinking Roxithromycine (chest antibiotic i think).
Around 8:30pm, Ellie was waking me up asking if I was up for dinner. I made a pass and dozed back to sleep. i coudln´t force myself to even go to the toilet and wash my face nor br ush my teeth. my energy level dropped down.
Lunes. El trese de Julio. Visita de doctor
We were supposed to be on the 8 am bus bound for Puno (the entry point to Lake Titicaca from PEru side, which was another thousand of meters above sea level, not to mention, freezing cold. lake titicaca is where you see the flo ating islands, and which they say is the b irth place of the Incan civilization).
Despite the fact that I had my bus tickets bought, I decided to stay. I explained to Elli that he can go ahead with the trip without me. IT was going to be a 5 hour bus ride, and he was convincing me to come along and just look for a doctor in Puno. I´m thankful i didn´t give in. We said our goodbyes and he headed his way. Now i´m back to being Soloista.
I dozed off for a few more hours, and found the strength to get up. I had to check out, take care of the bills, have a few dollars changed to soles (since the front desk didnt accept dollars), look for a clinic, etc).
"Donde esta mas cercano el clinico?" (Where´s the nearest clinic). I was thankful that it was just a few doors away from where i stayed. Along Calle Palacio Viejos was Policlinico Espiritu Santo.
I talked to the lady and asked "necesito el medico que habla Ingles" (i think i was trying to say , i need a doctor who speaks english). I was referred to Dr. Alan SAlas, who was scheduled for 3 to 7 pm esta tarde.
I cant explain if it was the altitude, but the more i put effort in walking, the headaches became worse. plus my cough and colds were not doing my any good at all. i forced myself to eat, and drink my vitamins, panadol and roxithromycin.
I went back to the hostel and packed my stuff, ready to check out. Asked for a cab and transferred to a cheaper hostel.
I found myself in a hostel in a little bit dodgy area of this city. Hospedahe del PArque i think. The area somewhat reminded me a little bit of Recto. I booked a single room with my own bathroom, but got a dorm style since nothing was available. They decided that i can have it all to myself. thank God. or else, i´ll be spreading my cough and colds. It was 5-bed type of dorm. I chose the bed nearest to the window....now i regret doing that. They had a rooftop with a view of El Misti and its cone topped with a little bit of snow. There were a few occupants inthe building. Breakfast wasn´t included, but it was okay. The price was cheap, so what do you expect. They offered me coca tea, so i sat there with the Llama for Lunch book, forcing myself to be awake.
The effort wasn´t enough. I fell flat on the bed for a few hours. DIdn´t have energy to eat lunch, and dozed off. The fever was coming back again. Around 2:30 pm, I forced myself to get up. The hostel was so convenient to everything. Honestly, I felt more homey here. I saw more o fthe locals, felt like i was getting more of an experience of the culture. Crazy vans shouting for passengers, taxi drivers who would just stop anywhere, anytime, etc. I found it fun, despite the noise. I think this was the real way to go. yeah, funny huh, i can still think this way despite how my ailments.
I found a place to eat almuerzo (lunch). I order Bistek Kumpleto (bistek is so typical here). My appettite wasn´t good, so i decided to have the rest of what was left for take away (so i dont´have to worry about cena or dinner). One thing about altitude sickness, don´t eat too much.
out of breath, i decided to hail a taxi. There I was lined up with the locals, estoy buscande por Medico General. I still found this whoe experience interesante.
Dr. Alan SAlas was younger than I expected. He was the recommended doctor to me since he was the only one who could speak English. He had a few questions, but was more saying that I should practice more Spanish. Asking me also why i decided to choose to travel alone and to South America. AFter the chitchats, he was asking me if i had exposure to any influenza and queried the countries i´ve been to before.
After checking my throat and lungs, he diagnosed me of having throat and chest infection. So i had to take an injection and a few more tablets for 3 days. To conclude, I was to stay here in Arequipa for 3 days. Then c heck up with him again, before I even dare go up to Puno. t here goes my itinerary. but then I thought, hey, some things are out of our control. Things happp en. just need to work it out, and accept things as they are. And there are some instances in your life that would just make you realize what you are capable of and how far you can push your boundaries. I didn´t want to sulk nor cry about this, coz i know this woul djust make me stronger as a person.
The injection hurt a little bit, as it was done on my hiney. Still, to save me some soles, I walked all the way from the clinic, and found me an internet cafe. I did some research on the drugs that i was taking. the injection was something steroidal. WAHHH!!!! darn it. i was tryin to avoid that. oh well. it´s in my system now. it´s supposed to be a wonder drug. well let´s see tomorrow if i feel like super woman after all of these.
Dizzy and feeling feverish again, I walked my way back to the hostel. Bought myself a 2 Litre boteya de agua (singas). i ate my leftover from lunch, and dozed off again. had to wake up at 9 pm for another medicine take.
I took a few mor ehours of reading, and started reading the book about a girl who started bi king South America. AFter a while, jumped on to Lonely planet, trying to figure my way to the borders of Bolivia and finding the safest route to cross Lake Titicaca. then i dozed back to sleep, after too much of an effort to ignore the noisy street outside my window.
MArtes. El trese de Julio.
I woke up around 8 am. AFter reading an email from Bryan (who I met in the SAcred Valley tour in Cusco), I decided to go to Museo Sanctury where they have Juanita the Ice Princess.
I had desayuno (breakfast) at one of the side street cafes and had a chat with the waiter, asking for directions to Calle La Merced. I felt so much better when i woke up today. I now believe that iwas a wonder drug.
I bo ught my entry ticket to the tour in the Museo. I was thinkin to challenge myself and get a spanish speaking guide, but decided not to. or else i wouldn´t fullyu appreciate the narrati ve. SAd though since cameras weren´t allowed.
Since I was early , it was only me and another lady from the US. I found it better that way, at least it was more intitmate with the guide and we can ask questions more.
Juanita was discovered in 1995 at Mount Ampato, part o fthe Andes Sierras. In the INcan time some 500 to 600 years ago, They chose children for sacrificing. Juanita was special, and was believed to come from an upper class family in their society. Her body was nicely preserved, maybe due to the temperature up in Ampato (20,700 feet above sea level). She was found by Johan and Miguel, Anthropologists who hiked this mountain.
Hundred of years ago, the people believed that there was a need to sacrifice to the Apus, or the so called Mountain Gods. Our g uide said that maybe durin gthat time, there was a vol canic eruption so they decided to sacrifice these children. however, there were requirements before even considered to be given to the Gods. The child between 12 and 14 years of age should be beautiful and smart, and a virgin. What i found interesting was that in mid way to the top of Mount AMpato, they found remains of a boy sacrifice. Usually they would find g irls as sacri fices.
Juanitas face was unblemished and the preservation of her hands and arms were said to be amazing. The ornaments and the dress that she wore says that she comes from a royal family, plus our guide said that her tupu, or the pin used fo rher tunic was something special. She was the only sacrifice found on the tip of the Ampato. Findings from the scientists in the US, has shown that she had a blow on her right eye, which caused her death. As to why this was done, that´s another story and maybe unknown. All of these were covered by the NAtional Geographic in 1996.
And so here I am typing the ha ppenings of the past few days. I´m here in my favorite, simple, internet cafe which i discovered off the main square. IT´s cheaper which was one soles for an hour, and faster. :) . along Calle San Agustin.
I hope all is well with everyone. I know this is a long read for you guys. But just wanted to share what i´ve been experiencing, once i´m feeling better. so nobody gets worried. :) i´ll visit the doctor on Thursday and ask for tips in preparation for Puno and La Paz, Bolivia. And i´m very thankful that someone upstairs is watching over me. :) plus i know your prayers are with me.
